I was catching waves during a big south swell last week at Sewer Peak. A ginormous set rolled in; I made it through the first wave, but I wasn’t so lucky with the second. I felt my leash snap as the wave detonated on top of me and sent me swimming. Realizing I had an appointment to get to, I made the decision to ditch the board and swim in from outside of Sewer Peak. As I kicked my way to shore—and thank God for fins, a major plus of being a body boarder—I thought, “I don’t even like that...